How to Maintain and Care for Your Rowing Equipment

To maintain and care for your rowing equipment, do four things every time: clean it, dry it, inspect it and store it properly. A few minutes after each session keeps most kit safe and stops small faults from growing. The routine below covers boats, oars, ergs and clothing, with a schedule at the end.

Boats

Rinse and dry the hull after each outing, and store the boat on padded supports. British Rowing says boats should be checked each time they go afloat, and its pre-outing check is the best list to follow:

1. Hull. No scrapes or cracks you can’t account for.
2. Buoyancy. Compartments, seals, hatch covers and ventilation bungs are secure and watertight.
3. Bow ball. In good condition and securely fixed.
4. Heel restraints. Strong, secure and the right length. Laces and cable ties aren’t appropriate.
5. Steering. Rudder lines, rudder and fin are secure and working.
6. Riggers and running gear. Outriggers, swivels, gates, seats, runners and stretchers are secure.
7. Blades. Undamaged, with buttons secure.
8. Lights, if the outing needs them.

Then look for the small things. Seat wheels should turn freely, and the track should be clear of grit. Nuts should be tight, with nothing bent. Our list of handy rowing boat accessories shows which tools and spares to keep to hand.

Our guide to boat maintenance has a full checklist, and how to maintain your rowing shell goes further on hulls. Ask the boatman before you adjust anything on a club boat. Before a race, follow our boat inspection checklist.

Oars and sculls

Rinse after use, dry the handles and sleeves, and check blades and collars for damage. Concept2 says to rinse with fresh water after every use in salt water. Store oars supported along their length, out of the sun, because ultraviolet light degrades the surface over time. Replace grips that have worn smooth. Our guide on how to clean your rowing oar has the step-by-step version.

Rowing machines

Concept2’s RowErg maintenance schedule is simple, and it’s a sensible model for other air rowers:

How often	Job
After use	Wipe the monorail with a cloth and soap and water, or glass cleaner
Every 50 hours	Oil the chain with about a teaspoon of purified mineral oil, 3-IN-ONE or 20W motor oil on a paper towel, then wipe off the excess
Every 250 hours	Check the chain for stiff links, inspect the shock cord and handle connection, check screws, vacuum dust from the flywheel

At 4 hours a week, 50 hours comes round roughly every 12 to 13 weeks. Gyms should do these jobs weekly and monthly instead. Don’t clean the chain with solvents such as WD-40. Avoid bleach, mineral acids and coarse abrasives on the rail. Our page on how to clean your rowing machine covers the routine.

Clothing and personal kit

• Wash technical kit at the temperature on the label and skip fabric softener, which can reduce how well it wicks sweat.
• Dry shoes thoroughly between sessions. Stuff wet ones with paper and keep them away from direct heat.
• Replace worn items, especially gloves, shoes and anything that affects grip.
• Rinse the kit bag now and then, and don’t leave wet kit zipped up for days.

Storage

Wherever you store kit, aim for dry, cool and out of direct sun. Heat and ultraviolet light degrade plastics, rubber and composites. Keep boats supported at the right points, oars supported along their length, and ergs away from damp garages if you can. If a store floods, check everything before use.

Moving between waters

If you travel to races, clean boats, blades and trailers before the kit reaches new water. The national Check Clean Dry campaign asks water users to check kit for plants and animals, clean it and dry it fully, because invasive species can survive in damp kit. Drain the hull and any trapped water before you leave a site.

The boathouse too

Your kit is only as safe as the place you launch it from. A slimy landing stage is a hazard for anyone carrying a boat, so build cleaning your rowing dock into the club’s rota.

Common mistakes

• Putting kit away wet. Damp bags, shoes and covers grow mould. Open them up and let them dry.
• Using the wrong cleaner. Harsh solvents can damage paint, gel coat and rubber. Mild soap and water do most jobs.
• Ignoring small noises. A click or squeak from a seat or gate is usually grit or a loose fitting. It’s easier to fix early.
• Over-tightening. Forcing a nut can strip the thread or crack a fitting. Snug is enough, unless the maker gives a figure.
• Skipping the log. If nobody records faults, they get repeated.
• Leaving damaged kit in the rack. British Rowing’s advice is to quarantine it, clearly mark the damage and repair it before anyone uses it again.

A simple schedule

When	Task	Rough time
Before every session	Pre-outing check of boat and blades	2 to 5 minutes
After every session	Rinse, wipe, dry, tidy away	5 minutes
Monthly	Closer look at riggers, wheels, tracks and grips	20 to 30 minutes
Once a season	Full inspection, wax the hull, replace worn parts	1 to 2 hours per boat

The timings are rules of thumb. Keep spare nuts and a 10 mm and 13 mm spanner in your bag, log repairs, and never use kit you believe to be unsafe. If you’re unsure about anything structural, ask someone qualified.